Measuring Appliance Openings Before the Cabinets Are Ordered

Cabinets are built to the inch, and appliances are bought to the manufacturer's sheet, and a kitchen goes wrong when the two are matched from memory. Every remodel in Irvine, CA has one story where a range arrived a half inch too wide or a refrigerator would not clear a door. The cure is ordinary: measure every opening, read every spec sheet, and settle the appliances before any cabinet is ordered.

Why appliance choice comes first

A cabinet maker draws around the appliances. The width of the range sets the width of the run beside it, the depth of the refrigerator sets how far the end panel sticks out, and the dishwasher height sets the counter. Changing an appliance after the cabinets are built means a filler strip, a recut or a reorder, and none of those looks like the original plan. Crews in Woodbridge and Northwood homes, where the original openings were cut for appliances that are no longer sold, learn this early.

What to read on each spec sheet

Every appliance comes with an installation sheet that lists the cutout size, the clearance to the side and back, the vent or duct position, and the electrical or gas supply. The table below shows the points a crew checks before an order goes in.

ApplianceWhat to confirmCommon trap
Range or cooktopCutout width and depth, gas or electric supply, clearance to the hood and to side cabinetsA gas line that stops short of the new position
Wall ovenCabinet opening height, cutout depth, a dedicated circuitA cabinet box built without the vent gap above the oven
RefrigeratorWidth, depth with the door open, water line and outlet locationDoors that hit a wall or an island before opening fully
DishwasherHeight under the counter, drain and supply positions, the floor levelNew flooring that raises the floor and traps the unit
Microwave drawer or built inCutout size, the circuit, ventilation spaceA shared circuit that trips when the hood starts
Range hoodDuct size and route, mounting height, blower locationA duct path blocked by a beam or a joist

The table is a starting point. The sheet for the exact model has the final numbers, and two models that look alike can differ by a quarter inch.

The floor under the appliances

A dishwasher slides into an opening whose height was set by the old floor. If a new floor goes in first and runs under the cabinets, it adds thickness, and the dishwasher can lose the clearance it needs. If the floor stops at the cabinet base, the old height remains, but a future change of appliance is harder because the floor never ran under the opening. Tile adds the most height, and a thin plank adds the least. On a concrete slab there is no subfloor to cut down, so the choice has to be made on paper.

The refrigerator has its own problem. A refrigerator sits on the floor with wheels or feet, and it has to roll out for service. A floor with a lip, a threshold or a sharp edge scars when the unit is pulled out. Many crews lay a flat strip of the same flooring under the refrigerator for exactly that reason.

Appliance finishes and the cabinets around them

Stainless steel, matte black and panel ready appliances each behave differently beside a cabinet finish. Stainless reflects the room, so it picks up the color of the cabinets and the light from the windows. Fingerprints show on it, and brushed grain should run the same way across every appliance on a wall, or the kitchen looks mismatched. Matte black hides smudges and swallows light, which is a point to weigh in a small kitchen with one window. Panel ready units take a cabinet door on the front, and the door has to match the finish and the grain of the cabinets beside it, which is one more reason to order them together.

Mixing finishes is fine if the choice is deliberate. Two stainless appliances beside one black one reads as an accident. All stainless with black hardware reads as a plan.

Lighting that works with the appliances

A tall refrigerator or a wall oven cabinet throws a shadow across the counter beside it. A hood with built in lights covers the range, but not the counter on either side of it. The lighting plan has to account for each of these before the ceiling is opened. A few points come up on nearly every job.

  • Put a light source on each side of a tall appliance, so its shadow does not fall on the work counter.
  • Check that the hood lights are bright enough over the cooktop, and add a separate strip under the cabinets on both sides of it.
  • Leave the glass fronted wall oven door out of the line of direct light, which otherwise reflects into the room.
  • Place the switch for the hood and the switch for the lights where a person at the range can reach both.

Homes near the University of California Irvine and in the older parts of the city often have a single light fixture in the middle of the ceiling. That one fixture lights none of these zones, so the new plan adds them all at once.

Circuits and gas, counted before the walls close

Each large appliance has a power requirement, and a few have a dedicated one. A modern kitchen can easily hold an oven, a cooktop, a dishwasher, a disposal, a microwave, a refrigerator and a hood on separate circuits, plus the countertop outlets that code requires. Older tract homes were wired for fewer of these. An electrician adds up the load, checks the panel, and decides what to add. The same count covers gas. A new cooktop in a new spot needs a line run before the drywall closes, with a pressure test and an inspection.

Delivery, storage and the day the appliances arrive

Appliances are often delivered long before the install, and they need a dry place to wait. A garage works, if the boxes stay upright and untouched. Protective film stays on until the last day. A refrigerator delivered early and plugged in to a half finished kitchen collects drywall dust in its coils. The best timing puts delivery after the cabinets and counters are done and before the final plumbing and electrical connections.

A short list before the order

Before cabinets are ordered, a careful crew holds every appliance's spec sheet next to the drawing and checks the cutouts, the clearances, the doors' swing, the vents, the circuits and the floor height. It takes an afternoon, and it saves the week lost to a returned order.

An appliance plan that is measured twice rarely needs a filler strip.